Learning to Ice Climb in Hyalite Canyon

Woman lead belays an ice climber in Hyalite Canyon

*This post is sponsored but all opinions are my own*

Practice being a beginner

When we planned this trip to Montana and were trying to figure out what activities to do, Ice Climbing was one of the first things that came to mind. For most people that know me, this is probably pretty surprising as I HATE rock climbing and will do anything I can to avoid it. I am highly anxious by nature and with most outdoor activities the excitement will override my anxiety. Rock climbing has been the one exception to that. So for me to want to harness up, attach myself to a rope, and put sharp objects in my hands and on my feet so I can climb up an ice wall is a little out of character.

So why did I choose this activity? My misadventures in learning how to ski as an adult have really taught me the value of being a beginner at something that terrifies you. It’s a mental state you can't really reproduce in any other conditions and it truly teaches you a lot about who you are as a person. A younger Kaelee avoided all things she was afraid of or bad at, I like to think this older wiser version of myself will continue to open them with open arms, and a guided ice climbing excursion in Montana is a perfect example of that.

Montana Alpine Guides

Like our backcountry skiing trip in Yellowstone National Park, our ice climbing trip was booked through Montana Alpine Guides. Montana Alpine Guides is based out of Bozeman, Montana, but offers trips and courses in rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, skiing, and more all over the world. They have been in operation since 1985 and we really enjoyed both of our trips booked through them! 

We met our Ice Climbing guide, Alex, at their office in Bozeman where he provided me with boots, crampons, a helmet/harness, and ice climbing tools for our trip. While I actually own most of these items, it was wonderful to not have to pack them for this trip since we had already brought so much ski gear and were toeing the line with an overweight baggage fee. After I was set up with all the gear I needed we caravanned to Hyalite Canyon about 30 minutes away. 

Hyalite Canyon

Mountain view from approach trail in Hyalite Canyon

Hyalite Canyon is one of the premiere Ice Climbing destinations in the world. With over 150 routes within three square miles you will find something for everyone from beginners to pros. The road to Hyalite Canyon is a maintained forest road. While you won’t hit many potholes, do expect ice and snow in the winter. Our rental car didn’t have the best tires and even though it was AWD we definitely spun out in a few areas. Just take the road super slow and you should be fine!

At the end of the road there is a large parking lot with a well maintained pit toilet, which is always a welcome sight at a winter trailhead! Our guide Alex had us put on our crampons at the trailhead before a 15 minute approach to the crag. At first, I thought this was a little over cautious, but as we got closer the snowy approach quickly turned into a sheet of ice and I was thankful to already have traction on.

Our Day Ice Climbing

Ice climber rappeling from anchor in Hyalite Canyon

The area in Hyalite Canyon our guide brought us to was a large crag that had multiple options for routes. This ended up being perfect, as I was totally new to ice climbing but my friend Amber has a lot more experience. He had Amber lead belay him up a good beginner route so he could set up a top rope and get us going. When we first arrived we were the only group there, but the crag quickly filled up with many other parties. Our guide apologized for this, but I honestly enjoyed the people watching and witnessing the different skill levels on display while waiting for my turn to climb! Hyalite Canyon is also a super popular area so I was under no impression of having solitude on this day.

After our guide set up a top rope and Amber climbed our first route of the day, it was my time to learn and climb. I won’t lie, the second I walked up to the wall with two stabby ice tools in my hands I started to shake and wonder how much I ACTUALLY wanted to do this. Thankfully, Alex was a great teacher and super patient. He was able to break down all the movements in a way that was easy for me to grasp and get me started.

Even with Alex’s great instruction, I felt my hands, arms, and shoulders getting gripped out and overused on that first trip up the wall. When rock climbing, that feeling can lead me to the verge of a panic attack, so when I felt it happening I asked to be lowered before I panicked. Once back on the ground and resting, I would check in with our guide and ask what I could do better to avoid getting to that point. On my next trip up the wall, I would attempt to use that knowledge and get a little further up. For my third attempt, I was finally able to calm down and better remember what he had said. I finally started getting my weight off of my arms and start trusting my feet/resting on them when that exhaustion started to hit.

Beginner ice climber climbs up ice wall in Hyalite Canyon

 It may have taken me three tries, but I finally got up to the top of that route. While I waited to be lowered Amber told me to “look stoked” and I quickly replied, “I am! But also scared” which is a pretty great description of my mindset the whole time. After being lowered, I realized that I could barely hold my sandwich and decided to rest while Amber moved on to a harder route. As she climbed, our guide asked me if I wanted to try it, but since the crux was at the bottom of the route and I could barely hold anything anymore, I opted to end my day on the high note of completing the easier one.

After Amber finished climbing, we packed up all our gear and hiked back down to our car. As we hiked out, I felt proud of myself for finding a way to work through a major mental block in a way that worked for me and helped me reach my end goal. While I don’t think I will be chasing ice climbing across the country in future winters, if given the chance I would definitely try this sport again!

Woman climbing up ice wall in Hyalite Canyon

Plan your own trip to Montana

Do you want to learn how to ice climb or find another way to push your comfort zone in Montana? Check out Visit Montana for resources in planning your trip! Also, make sure to check out my blog post about our ski excursions while on this trip to Montana!

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Kaelee ButnerComment